endless winter

by the time i got to south africa, it was winter time there (southern hemi). kinda shitty that it had to be so cold for our surf trip. there is that surf movie "endless summer" where they try to leave cali during the winter in search of waves.

they went to africa during the right time.



this perfect wave clip is probably the one that surfers remember the most, because it's such a dream.

according to comments: they developed those sand dunes into a little town, developed the beach, and ruined the break.

now, there's still a break there, but it's not perfect. nor is it sandy on the bottom.

it is rocky and has sea urchins. but still, it works. i probably got my biggest and best wave of all time there.

also saw a giant pod of dolphins (about 40) pass underneath me as i was waiting in the lineup. it was in about 6 feet of water. amazing. something i'll never forget.

another amazing thing i'll never forget? the giant turd cloud that drifted over. clear skies, then this big long sausage of a cloud drifting over us. so spooky.



video:



there was also a nearby penguin rescue.